Homeward bound

Time's up! Unbelievable! I'll be making my way to Bratislava in a few hours. My flight leaves from there early tomorrow.

What a year! I am entirely satisfied with my experiences. I want to thank you again for your constant support. Every time you emailed, called, sent a letter, or prayed, you made my heart a little lighter. And nothing says "I love you" like an overseas visit! Twelve Americans visited central Slovakia this year. Twelve! I've been all smiles for the past few days. I have such a wonderful life to come home to. I can't wait.

Dovidenia!

"For travel to be delightful, one must have a good place to leave and return to."
Frederick B. Wilcox

Amen, Fred!

Countdown to contentment

It's been a good day already. I had my last lesson at Euromotor this morning, and I beat two car dealers at a game of Bull $#!%. They were natural liars, so I consider it a monumental victory.

In only three days, I'll be back where I belong! Most of my classes have finished, so I've had plenty of time to reflect on my time in Europe. What a year! I know that I'm ready to come home because I can laugh about the things that made me cry. I'm grateful that I had more opportunities to smile than pout.

I made a video of some of my favorite things. Of course, it's the people that made the trip worthwhile... that video is coming soon! The beauty in these pictures can't compare to what waits for me in the United States... hugs from my mom, seeing my smile reflected in Meg's, the tiny voices of my nieces and nephews, a proud look from my dad, Sarah's immense energy, and that look on Jen's face just before she laughs. I'm the luckiest girl on the planet.

Venetian escape

I met Aaron in Venice this weekend. It was the perfect place to spend my last weekend in Europe. Around every corner, a quaint bridge leaped over a canal. Shutters and flowers were smeared on every wall. It has to be the most beautiful city in the world. St. Mark's square was crowded with happy people and happier pigeons. We saw the Bridge of Sighs, the Rialto Bridge, Murano glass-makers, and the church of Santa Maria della Salute. We enjoyed scorching Italian sunshine and delicious Italian food. It was an unforgettable weekend that I will replay often in my mind.

I'll be home in four short days!

My funny friend

This summer, Simona will live in France to be a nanny for a very lucky little girl and to master another language! I had to say goodbye to my favorite Slovak on Thursday. Simona shared everything with me. We shared adventures and meals. We shared families and holidays. We shared laughter and tears. I will always be grateful to Simona for making me feel at home. Slovakia has definitely lost some of its luster since she left.

Tim, my new friend from London, came to visit this weekend. We spent Friday and Saturday in Bratislava. He enjoyed the traditional foods and the Slovak pubs. A group of us returned to the lake in Bratislava and enjoyed a floating picnic on a paddle boat. Yesterday, I showed Tim around my town. He came to Slovakia expecting to see gray everywhere; he was pleasantly surprised by the colorful Old Town in Bratislava and the SNP square in Banská Bystrica.

Heaven and hell

Last weekend, Aaron and I visited the castle in Čachtice. It's where Countess Elizabeth Báthory became the most successful serial killer in history. She murdered more than 600 young women. The (false) legend is that she bathed in the blood of virgins to remain looking young. I think the truth is brutal enough. She's in the Guinness Book of World Records for the most victims. The castle is in ruins... the best castles are. Wild flowers disguise the once bloody walls. It was so lovely that I accidentally forgot the horror in its history.

The next day, we trekked through Slovensky Raj (Slovak Paradise). The name is quite accurate. The trails include giant ladders and chains attached to the steep rocks to help you ascend next to waterfalls. It was a giant playground in nature... the most beautiful place I've seen in Slovakia. I was nervous and shaking on the ladders, but adrenaline carried me up.

Happy camper

I spent Thursday night with Simona and her mom in their family cottage. We took a bus for about an hour and walked 40 minutes farther to reach it. I was expecting a large tent made of bricks... I was amazed by the reality. It was a beautiful home, lacking only electricity and running water. Simona's grandfather spent ten years building it in his spare time. We played cards and relaxed in the sun. And, of course, we feasted. I slept like a rock. On the way home, we stopped at a koliba to have Kofola. It's a Slovak cola that tastes perfect on a hot day.

Today, there was a halušky competition in Turecká, a neighboring village. Teams of four made and ate huge quantities of bryndzové halušky as quickly as possible. It was hilarious. Simona and I cheered for this team.

Bryndzové halušky is the national dish of Slovakia. It consists of potato dumplings, sheep's cheese, and bacon.

Street of dreams

Thanks to Mom, Dad, Jen, Greg, Sarah, Jesse, Meg, Brent, and Jill, I am bringing a piece of Banská Bystrica home with me. They gave me a painting! When I am in Denver, I will look at it and remember my favorite part of my favorite Slovak town. I will imagine walking to the stand at the end of the road to buy dried strawberries or papaya. I will remember the sound of the clock tower, ringing seven minutes before the hour. I will think of the accordion player who set my steps to music during every season. I will remember the smiling people who climbed the little hill with ice cream cones and fancy strollers. Dolna Street is beyond charming and I am beyond grateful. My children (and yours) will grow very tired of hearing me talk about the town in the picture. Thank you.

Cultured cousins

In Lynn's final two days, we packed in plenty of fun. On Friday, we conquered Vienna. We started the day at St. Stephen's cathedral; we saw masterpieces by Monet and Picasso at the Albertina Museum; and we walked through the beautiful gardens at the Schönbrunn Palace.

Yesterday, we were ready to relax. We spent the day at Zlaté Piesky, a lake in Bratislava. We soaked up the sun. Lynn and I rented a paddle boat and discovered a nude beach on the opposite side of the lake. It was a memorable experience! I had to say goodbye to Lynn, Tara, and Nate in Bratislava yesterday. I instantly missed their wide-eyed smiles. Thanks for coming!

Royal ruins

Today, Lynn, Nate, Tara, Simona, and I traveled east to the Spiš castle. It was built in the 12th century and was recently featured in the movie The Last Legion. It is the largest castle in central Europe. Hiking around the ancient walls was enthralling but exhausting.

We also visited Levoča, home of the famous Master Pavol. He carved a 60-foot alter out of wood without using a single nail. It was beautiful. The Madonna from the alter is featured on Slovakia's 100-crown bill. Pavol was a very talented man... almost as good as our Uncle Mike.

¡Say queso!

Lynn's here! It's fun to witness her bubbly personality colliding with Europe's incredible sites. I like her. I also like her traveling companions, Tara and Nate. It's an upbeat group with plenty of energy. We toured Bratislava on Friday before heading to Spain! Barcelona was beautiful. I blame Gaudí. He's the architect behind La Segrada Família, Parc Güell, and a few other unique buildings. His designs include incredible mosaics and very curvy facades. On Sunday, we headed to the beach. The forecast called for rain, but we enjoyed several hours of pure sunshine. Heaven! We also tasted some traditional Spanish food- paella and tapas. I think it was a completely successful weekend in Spain.

Parc Güell was muy bonita. A wavy bench wrapped around an open area where tourists and pigeons mingled. Lynn (A.K.A. Lola) put her Spanish lessons to the test. ¡Ay, caramba!

Dutch bikes and dikes

I can't seem to stay away from Holland. After another fun-filled weekend in Utrecht, I have decided that there just aren't enough bikes in the rest of the world. It's amazing what the Dutch have done with bicycles. The bike paths have their own stop lights and the bikers have their own road rules and traffic jams. It's not uncommon to see parents with two or three kids attached to their bikes. Sometimes they sit in giant baskets. I joined in the peddling this weekend. I rode all over town and even about an hour outside of Utrecht for a barbecue on a lake. I introduced the international crowd to roasted marshmallows.

On Monday, Aaron took me to Afsluitdijk, a major dike in the Netherlands. It's about 20 miles long. It was strange to see the sea on both sides of the road. The breeze was salty and refreshing. And the company was nice. Aaron is a Kiwi with a talent for putting me at ease and making me laugh. I would be happy to find myself in Holland again.

Oh boy! Bojnice!

Simona and I visited the castle in Bojnice today. It's one of Slovakia's most popular tourist attractions, and it's easy to see why. This must have been Walt Disney's inspiration! It dates back to the 10th century, but the most current renovations were done to imitate French castles. It is absolutely stunning.

Take a hike

It's been a very good week. Yesterday, I didn't have classes because of Labor Day. It's interesting to hear how the celebrations have changed since the fall of communism... no more mandatory celebrations over the joys of working. Instead, Simona and I had a movie marathon at the Europa shopping center and then watched some folk dancers perform. I could have stood there for hours.

The whole town has been taking advantage of the gorgeous weather. The restaurants on the square have packed the place with outdoor seating, and ice-cream eaters run rampant. The fountain is blasting, and I'm overjoyed. Today, Simona and I took another hike near her neighborhood. Simona likes to hike like I do, relaxed and with a supply of chocolate.

Movie madness

Usually, the movie theater is my sanctuary. Usually, I go there and listen to the actors speaking English (without accents or mistakes) and I am transported to America. Usually, I smile over my nachos and escape for a few hours. Not today. Today, I went to see Majster šarkanov, known in the U.S. as The Kite Runner. I don't know if the entire movie was in Dari (with Czech subtitles) or if it just felt that way. :) It's a good thing I read the book. I was able to follow along without losing patience. I'm pretty sure it was a good movie.

Home away from home

I've made many happy memories at Simona's house. The first time I visited her, she had chips and salsa waiting to ease my Mexican cravings. At her Christmas party, I taught several Slovak women to play poker. We made gingerbread cookies in her kitchen, and I spent Christmas eve with her family. On several weekends, Simona has invited me over to watch classic Czech and Slovak movies and eat delicious meals. A few weeks ago, we sat at her table and decorated Easter eggs with melted wax crayons. She compared herself to Jackson Pollock. Today, we went on a hike in the woods near her neighborhood. In no time, the countless concrete buildings were out of sight and we were immersed in the trees and hills. It was another happy day with my good friend.

The Answer in Slovakia

A familiar man is gracing advertisements at bus stops across Bratislava. Allen Iverson, the cutest Denver Nugget, has gone international. Imagine my delight! I'm surprised at how many NBA fans there are in Slovakia. One of my students always asks, "Did you hear about the Nuggets game last night?" I usually can't say yes. I've been a lazy fan. Jesse has been keeping me posted on the playoff possibilities, and I am looking forward to returning to the Pepsi Center next season.

Hard to say Auf Wiedersehen

I traveled to Berlin, Germany, with Sarah and Jesse. There's a unique, sad energy about Berlin. The city has been shaped by destruction. The destruction of World War II changed the city's skyline and left the beautiful Kaiser Wilhelm Church in ruins. The destruction of the Berlin Wall reunited the city and gave them hope for a brighter future. It's a strange contrast. On Saturday, we went to the Sachsenhausen concentration camp outside of the city. It was a work camp for mostly political prisoners. All the Jewish inmates were sent to Auschwitz in 1942. An estimated 100,000 people were killed there, through executions and poor living conditions. After two days of trudging through memorials of Nazi and Communist brutality, we had to seek out a few upbeat Berlin sites. We gazed up at Siegessäule, the "angel on a stick." We gazed down at Berlin from 368 meters from the TV tower. We couldn't remove our gazes from the Berliner dom, an incredible Lutheran church. It was nice to end on a high note. We had to part ways at the Berlin bus station. Ugh! The goodbyes don't get easier. Sarah and Jesse have always taken really good care of me. They are protective and generous. I think it's the nicest kind of love.

My trip "home" should have been uneventful, but a minor mistake ended up costing me hours. The only reason I'm here now is because I pleaded with two Bohemian bus drivers with easy smiles and hidden halos.

Fun and games

Sarah and Jesse got a good taste of Banská Bystrica today. They visited my classes and introduced them to Reese's Peanut Butter Cups and Boggle. We toured the city and their Slovak experience was completed with thick hot chocolate and bryndzové halušky.

Déjà vu

I returned to Holland to meet Sarah and Jesse this weekend! We were enchanted by the streets of Amsterdam. We never tired of the reflections in the canals and the bike-choked paths. Jesse gave us a lengthy "tour" on our way to Anne Frank's House. We visited Vondel Park, Van Gogh's Museum, and the royal palace. The red light district provided plenty of shocks. We tasted Dutch pancakes with apples or chicken and cheese baked in. Delicious! On our last night, we traveled to the Magere Brug. The legend is that two sisters lived on opposite sides of the canal and built the bridge so they could visit each other often. I wish the Atlantic Ocean could be conquered with a bridge.

Chocolate dream

I love steamed dumplings with chocolate filling. If I had grown up in Slovakia, this is what I would have requested every year on my birthday. The gooey dumplings are coated in powdered sugar, cocoa, and melted butter. Unbelievable. It's another culinary delight that I experienced in Simona's kitchen.

Let's go Dutch

On a whim, I spent Easter weekend in Holland. Aaron, an American who has been living in Slovakia for nine years, invited me on an international road trip. His friends in the Netherlands come from Zimbabwe, Australia, Bulgaria, Albania, and New Zealand. They were eager to show me everything. In just three days, I experienced a Dutch comedy show, a boat ride through the canals of Biesbosch National Park, a trip to the tulip fields, and a walk on the beach of the North Sea. I also got a tour of Utrecht, the incredible city they're living in. I've never seen so many bikes in my life. I got a small shock from the alternative entertainment on display in Holland. My jaw dropped when we entered the red light district. One of my favorite memories was playing the Dutch edition of the windmill game on our way to see tulips in Lies. It was pretty competitive. Sometimes it is difficult for me to return to Slovakia after an adventure in western Europe, but it was easy this time. Aaron's obvious appreciation for Slovakia was contagious, and I returned "home" with a happy heart.

Teach 'em a lesson

Slovak women don't like Easter. On Easter Monday, men go from house to house, splashing women with water and hitting them with whips. In return, the women give them chocolate, eggs, money, and alcohol. Is anyone else confused? In the square, there's an Easter market with elaborately decorated eggs and the whips made from willow branches.

In my classes this week, students are planning hypothetical revolts against the Easter traditions. In their imaginations, the women splash the men with permanent green dye; they form an Anti-Splash Support Group; they drug the men and vacation in Egypt; they serve only non-alcoholic drinks and high-fiber snacks; and they drill holes in all the buckets.

Good as gold

It stopped raining today for the first time in eight days. It promises to start again tomorrow. The signs of spring are everywhere. Flowers are ready to burst in the square. It's great. Bring on the flip-flops and tan lines! Today I visited Kremnica, a town of about 6,000 residents, with my friend Sean. The town is known for gold mining. The square is on a steep hill and includes a plague column. Many European towns have plague columns to thank God for deliverance from the plague. Two-thirds of Kremnica's population was killed by the plague in the 17th century. We walked through the castle walls and climbed the tower in St. Catherine's church. Kremnica also has the oldest, still-running mint in the world. They have been making coins since 1328. I enjoyed spending the day in Kremnica. It was a great way to celebrate the sunshine.

Foreign feminist

Happy International Women's Day! I went to Simona's house for lunch. Her mom made us potato pancakes. Wow. Every time I am invited to eat with Slovaks, I eat until I think I'll burst. I love the food, but the portions are intense. This was another recipe I'll try to recreate.

This evening, I went on a walk. Every woman I passed had at least one flower. It's nice that women are recognized today, but I don't think it makes up for the work they do all year. It's not easy being a Slovak woman. Men seem proud to have no domestic responsibilities.

American pie

There are many Americans living in Slovakia this year through various Fulbright programs. I invited all of them to ski in central Slovakia this weekend. It didn't go exactly according to my careful plan. Heavy rain stopped our skiing ambitions. Instead, we went to a movie, walked through town, and played games. Conrad and Christina made an apple pie. There were nine people in my small apartment. It was loud and crowded, and I was beaming. We laughed about our triumphs and our failures. The combination of people was quite unique and it worked perfectly.

Brnin' both ends

In just two days, I was able to show Meg and Jill all of my favorite hangouts in Banská Bystrica. They drank tea with my students, tasted and loved brydzové halušky and trdelník, climbed the clocktower, and introduced Simona to maple syrup.

On Saturday morning, we took a bus to Brno, the second biggest city in the Czech Republic. It is a city filled with legends. There is a man trapped in a wall, a dragon in the waterways, a demonic wheel, a premature bell tower, and a vengeful sculptor. We wandered through the streets and stopped on sunny benches. It was very relaxing.

I had to say goodbye to Meg and Jill in Bratislava yesterday. It's really very difficult when the laughter comes to an abrupt halt. But I know that we'll think about our time in Europe and laugh about it for many years.

Oui love Paris.

On Tuesday, we took a train to Paris. It takes less than 12 hours to fall in love with Paris. We ran through the narrow, shuttered streets to all the major attractions. We waved at the gargoyles of Notre Dame, chilled with The Thinker, marveled at Monet's waterlily masterpieces, snacked on crêpes, and nearly collapsed under the Eiffel Tower. We loved it all. The Eiffel Tower has always been romanticized, and it surpassed all expectations. We stopped for lunch, and Meg was hit over the head with the language barrier.

Living like queens (but keeping our heads)

Meg and Jill met me in London! It felt like I'd never left home. The laughter and conversations picked up where we left off in September. London was much more modern than I expected. Huge glass buildings blend with ancient stone churches. It felt a lot like New York City. We spent four days in London. We saw it all: Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, the London Eye, the Tate Modern Museum, Shakespeare's Globe Theater, Buckingham Palace, St. Paul's Cathedral, and Abbey Road. We also had a tour of the Tower of London where three of Henry VIII's wives lost their heads. Nottinghill was another favorite. We strolled through the markets and ate at a cafe. Britain is not known for good weather or good food, but we weren't disappointed. The skies were blue, and we loved the "English breakfast" and the outdoor market with cheese samples. Meg and Jill were not too keen on the fish and chips. Our favorite memories were made on our pub crawl. We stopped at every tube stop on the way to our hotel, found a pub, and toasted our friendship.

Spoons + sunshine = smiles

I taught my students to play Spoons. They were very aggressive, and we laughed a lot. I like to imagine they'll go home and play with their families. I may have started a craze! In order to make it a learning experience, I taught them crucial vocabulary like: to shuffle, to deal, spades, hearts, three of a kind, etc.

The weather has been positively delightful. Last week, I was reintroduced to my shadow. After gray skies for most of December and January, the sun has emerged. I've heard March will be freezing, but I'm optimistic that spring is nearly here. Two of my students wore sunglasses in class this morning because it was so bright in the classroom. They're silly!

Hot dog!

The European dog sled championship was held in a nearby ski town called Donovaly today. Simona and I went to check it out. We stood in the cold and watched them run by for hours. It may not sound appealing, but I was awestruck. I've never seen anything quite like it. Simona expected them to run faster. Her imagination got in the way. Zdenka Predná sang a few songs for the crowd. She's a famous Slovak singer who got her start in 2005 when she placed fourth on Slovensko hľadá SuperStar, the American Idol equivalent. You can watch her sing "I Will Survive" on YouTube. I have a feeling she doesn't really know what she's singing. http://youtube.com/watch?v=f67jC4nMnik

Earlier this week, I reunited with my fellow Americans. Fulbright held a mid-year conference for Americans living and working in the Czech and Slovak Republics. It was interesting to hear about their experiences and impressions. I feel very lucky to be teaching in Banská Bystrica. Some people are trying to stay optimistic about living in tiny, remote villages. After a few days of business, I went to a winery to taste Templářské , a tasty Czech wine, with my new friends. Nora is the Fulbright director of educational exchange in Slovakia. Jessica is teaching art in Bratislava this year.

Masopust in Medzibrode

Simona invited me to Medzibrode, her grandmother's village, to see an end-of-winter tradition called Masopust. Between Epiphany and Ash Wednesday, there are many celebrations and carnivals. Today, masked people marched through town with a small band. We sat in her grandmother's small kitchen/living room and waited until they sounded close.

We had goulash for lunch, and Simona and I helped her grandma make filled donuts over a wood-burning stove. The experience was unforgettable and the food was heavenly. Her grandma is the tiniest person I've ever seen. I kept thinking how funny it would be to see Jesse standing next to her.

On this video, they are making donuts with poppyseed filling. Slovaks use concentrated poppyseed in many recipes. I've had it in many desserts and in pasta. I think it's just okay, but Slovaks seem to love it.

My Mátuško

Right now, Matt is probably over the ocean somewhere. I am adjusting to the quiet. I have many new memories to keep me company. My favorites include exploring incredible cities in five incredible countries, experimenting with sheep's cheese omelets, holding hands on the way to school, laughing through our nerves when we were pulled over by the police, celebrating when the sun broke through the gray, discovering tucked-away cafes and teahouses, screaming at hockey games and whispering at movies. We had too much fun for one month.

Marshmallow churches and giant ferris wheels

This weekend, Matt and I revisited Bratislava on our way to Vienna. I cannot believe I have been to Bratislava several times and I didn't discover the Blue Church until now. After a while, all of the churches start to look alike, but not this one. It was from a dream. It looked almost puffy and very blue. St. Elisabeth used to sneak bread out of the castle for the hungry people. When she was caught, she said she had only roses hidden in her dress. By a miracle, the bread turned into roses to save her. The story is captured on the front of the church. The inside matches the outside.



Yesterday, we went to Vienna. It was my fourth time in Vienna, but I hope it won't be my last. We went to the Prater amusement park to ride on the Riesenrad, Vienna's famous 200-foot ferris wheel. It was as fun as it sounds! We also visited St. Stephen's cathedral and the Belvedere Museum. Gustav Klimt's The Kiss is held there. It was beautiful. My theory is that the woman in the painting was about to jump off the cliff, and she is relieved that he stopped her.