My Mátuško

Right now, Matt is probably over the ocean somewhere. I am adjusting to the quiet. I have many new memories to keep me company. My favorites include exploring incredible cities in five incredible countries, experimenting with sheep's cheese omelets, holding hands on the way to school, laughing through our nerves when we were pulled over by the police, celebrating when the sun broke through the gray, discovering tucked-away cafes and teahouses, screaming at hockey games and whispering at movies. We had too much fun for one month.

Marshmallow churches and giant ferris wheels

This weekend, Matt and I revisited Bratislava on our way to Vienna. I cannot believe I have been to Bratislava several times and I didn't discover the Blue Church until now. After a while, all of the churches start to look alike, but not this one. It was from a dream. It looked almost puffy and very blue. St. Elisabeth used to sneak bread out of the castle for the hungry people. When she was caught, she said she had only roses hidden in her dress. By a miracle, the bread turned into roses to save her. The story is captured on the front of the church. The inside matches the outside.



Yesterday, we went to Vienna. It was my fourth time in Vienna, but I hope it won't be my last. We went to the Prater amusement park to ride on the Riesenrad, Vienna's famous 200-foot ferris wheel. It was as fun as it sounds! We also visited St. Stephen's cathedral and the Belvedere Museum. Gustav Klimt's The Kiss is held there. It was beautiful. My theory is that the woman in the painting was about to jump off the cliff, and she is relieved that he stopped her.

The M.O.H. is S.O.L.

I have been feeling a little sad about missing all of the excitement surrounding Meg's upcoming wedding. So, I made a trip to a bridal store to try on the bridesmaids' dress she picked. I was excited that a store in Bratislava carried the same dress. A very friendly bride-to-be translated, but the dress was not available. Shucks! I miss you, Meg!

Krazy about Krakow

We haven't slowed down! Last Friday, we went to a hockey game in Zvolen. It wasn't quite like going to the Pepsi Center, but the crowd was energetic and the beer was 22 SKK, about $1. Zvolen played Bratislava. They are big rivals, so the game was intense.

The next morning, we boarded a train to Poland. I loved everything about Krakow. They have the biggest medieval square in Europe and a beautiful castle with an enchanting legend that includes a dragon-slaying tailor. I am prouder than ever to be a Pollack. I loved to imagine the lives of my ancestors. My imagination played... Maybe they hunted in these forests... Maybe they cooked this food to celebrate a birthday... Maybe they danced to this song or toasted each other with this beer... In my mind, they lead very happy, simple lives.

On Sunday, we walked through Kazimierz, the Old Jewish Town. Many of the buildings are still abandoned from the time when Jews were evacuated during World War II. Parts of Schindler's List were filmed there. We followed the fate of the Jewish people on a trip to Auschwitz. Nothing could have prepared me for that experience. Certain things will haunt me. The rooms filled with the victims' belongings made my imagination start again... I imagined the fathers behind the shaving brushes, the children behind the tiny shoes, and the sisters behind the piles of women's hair. I'm still processing the journey through the camp. It will never make sense.

Dobrú chuť!

Today is a pretty monumental day in Slovakia. Matt and I made bryndzové halušky, the national dish. It is potato dumplings with sheep's cheese and bacon bits. I wanted to be sure we were prepared, so we tried it in a restaurant this weekend, and I asked my classes for advice. We had to make a dough out of finely shredded potatoes and flour. We made a mess of the kitchen, but the final result looked and tasted like it should. Not many foreigners appreciate the strong taste of sheep's cheese, but I think it's great. What a delicious day!

Lighten up

This weekend, Matt and I headed for the High Tatras, Slovakia's biggest mountains. The people I've been teaching at the car dealership let me borrow a car. I've really enjoyed traveling by bus and train, but I was thrilled by the freedom of driving. We stopped for hot chocolate twice!

Our first stop was in Vlkolínec, a village with 35 inhabitants. UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site, so the wooden buildings are carefully preserved. It was a colorful little place. I can't imagine living in such a small village. We also went to the castle in Orava on Friday. It teeters on the edge of a very steep mountain. It was built in 1267. Incredible. We stayed in a nice hotel near Štrbské Pleso, an alpine lake. The lake was covered in snow, so it was difficult to fully appreciate.

On Saturday, we drove through the High Tatras. We wanted to take a gondola ride to the second highest peak in Slovakia, but the winds were too high. So, we headed to our final destination early. We stayed at Bešeňová, a spa! We soaked in a variety of hot tubs, including several that had healthy, brown water. Seriously. We also took advantage of the indoor water slide. It was very relaxing.

Today, we visited a huge wooden church. I'm a big fan. The bells tolled as soon as we arrived. We also took an hour tour of The Cave of Liberty. It was massive and strangely beautiful, but I was eager to see daylight. After bryndzové halušky for lunch, Matt was pulled over by a fine member of the Slovak police force because he didn't have his lights on. Apparently, Slovaks use their lights at all times of day. After some confusion in which I exhausted my very limited vocabulary and my ever-present charm, we were let go with a warning. We love the Slovak police.

It's true!

I had heard that Olomouc is the best kept secret in the Czech Republic. Let me be the first to confirm the rumors. Matt and I spent two snow-filled days walking through the town. We started by rubbing the turtle's head for luck, and it must have worked. A few hours later, we found a bar with a climbing wall. Apparently they don't see the danger in combining extreme physical activity, heights, and alcohol. Matt obviously felt at home because he walked into the bar and said, "What's goin' on, guys?" to two confused Czechs sitting on the stools. I had to remind him about the Tower of Babel. Olomouc's Cafe 87 serves a "world famous" chocolate pie. It's nice when towns claim a famous dessert... you have to try it. We also enjoyed Moravian food and the art gallery. The astronomical clock in town rivals Prague's. Under Communism, all of the saints were turned into workers. It's a chilling reminder of their recent history. On Monday, we took a walking tour of the town. Our guide was from Australia but has called Olomouc home for over five years. He was a charming man with an obvious passion for the town. He kept giving me excuses to return.

Lucky me

Happy New Year! Matt and I rang in the new year with the Irish. We flew to Dublin on December 31. Our taxi driver sat on the wrong side of the car and drove on the wrong side of the road, but everything else about Ireland felt right. We loved touring the Guinness Storehouse. The beer tasted even better after seeing how much pride is poured in. The Dublin castle was incredible. Our tour guide told stories about every piece of furniture, and it was easy to imagine the rooms filled with royalty. We walked to St. Stephen's Green, Trinity College, and Christ's Church cathedral. When a pub looked inviting, we stopped for a beer. We sat in an Irish pub while a small band played traditional tunes and the regulars sang along. The Irish charm was intoxicating. I loved the warmer weather, the double-decker buses, and the brick buildings with colorful doors. I didn't want to leave.